Follow these instructions to disassemble and reassemble both the front and rear track hubs. Only the front hub has been pictured here, but do not worry, they are basically the same. Just remember that the 9mm diameter axle goes into the front track hub and the 10mm diameter axle goes into the rear track hub.
Tools required
- (2) 15mm cone wrenches
- 20mm or 21mm socket
- Soft faced mallet
- Bearing puller
- Bearing press
- Bearing # is BR6902LLB (2 bearings in hub shell)
Disassembly
Remove the bronze axle nuts completely.
Fig.1. Removing axle nuts.
Fig.2 Aluminum.cone nut. Steel lock nut.
Take one of your 15mm cone wrenches and slip it onto the aluminum cone nut (Fig.3). Now take your second 15mm cone wrench and slip it onto the steel lock nut. As you hold the aluminum lock nut in place, loosen the steel lock nut by turning it counter-clockwise (Fig.4).
Fig.3 Fit cone wrench onto cone nut.
Fig.4 Turn steel lock nut counter-clockwise.
Remove the steel lock nut and the aluminum cone nut by hand (Fig. 5 & 6).
Fig.5 Remove lock nut.
Fig.6 Remove cone nut.
Now take a soft faced mallet and give a gentle tap to the end of the axle where you removed the cone and lock nuts (Fig.7). The tap will free the axle, cone and lock nut as one assembly that can be withdrawn from the hub shell (Fig.8). At this point, the bearings are still in the hub shell.
Fig.7 Tap axle assembly out of shell.
Fig.8 Withdraw axle assembly from shell.
Check the bearings in the hub shell for roughness. If it is determined that the bearings are in need of replacement, pull the bearings from the bearing bore utilizing a bearing removal/puller tool. A hammer and punch may also be used by striking at the back inner race of the bearing working the bearing from the bearing seat outwards. Be careful to work your way around the bearing as you tap it out so that the bearing is tapped out as straight as possible. Using a hammer and punch will more than likely damage the bearings, so only employ this method if you are going to renew the bearings.
Assembly
If new bearings are needed, press the bearings into the hub shell utilizing a bearing press. A socket the same diameter as the outer race of the bearing can be used in place of a press, we’ve used a 20mm socket. Align the socket with the bearing race and use a mallet to tap the bearing into place (Fig.9 & 10). Do not tap on the bearing seal or inner race as this can damage the bearing beyond repair. Make sure the bearing presses into the bearing bore straight.
Fig.9 Tapping bearing into bore. Fig.10 Fully seat bearing in bore.
Insert axle assembly into hub shell (Fig.11). Tap the axle with the mallet to fully seat it against the bearing. (Fig.12 & 13).
Fig.11 Installing axle assembly.
Fig.12 Tap axle end to fully seat.
Fig.13 Axle is fully seated.
Install the aluminum cone nut by threading it onto the axle until it seats fully against the bearing (Fig.14). Make sure that it is only finger tight. Next, thread on the steel locknut with the knurled side facing away from the aluminum cone nut (Fig.15). Remember to only finger tighten the lock nut.
Fig.14 Installing aluminum cone nut.
Fig.15 Installing steel lock nut.
Place a 15mm cone wrench on the flats of the aluminum cone nut and hold it at about 7 o’clock (Fig.16). Place your second 15mm cone wrench on the flats of the steel lock nut at approximately 5 o’clock. Hold the wrench on the aluminum cone nut in place as you tighten the steel lock nut by turning it clockwise.
Fig.16 Wrench on flats of cone nut.
Fig.17 Hold cone nut and tighten lock nut.
Once the lock nut is tight, check for lateral play by placing the palm of your hands or thumbs on both ends of the axle. Push back and forth. You should not feel the axle moving laterally if the hub is adjusted properly. Next, spin the axle with your fingers and check for any tightness or binding. If you feel any play or binding, the hub will need to readjusted. Sometimes when the lock nut is tightened, the axle will “walk” or move and the result will be that the bearing will bind. You can counteract this movement in one of two ways: (1) When you finger tighten the aluminum cone nut, loosen it an 1/8 of turn and then tighten the locknut. This may have to be repeated a few times to get the right adjustment with no play or binding. (2) The second way is to use an axle vise when you make the final adjustment. Place the opposite end of the threaded axle into the blocks of the axle vise and secure them in a bench vise. Now, you can finger tighten the cone nut and hold it with a wrench while you tighten the lock nut with your other 15mm wrench. The axle vise prevents the axle from moving when you make the final adjustment. If you don’t feel any play or binding, you are ready to ride.
WARRANTY: This warranty applies to all products sold by an authorized White Industries Dealer to the original owner. It covers any and all material and workmanship defects for one year from the date of purchase. Bearings are the exception and are warranted for 60 days from the date of purchase. With proper maintenance bearings should last much longer. White Industries limited warranty does not cover 1) normal wear and tear 2) damage, failure or loss caused by misuse, accident, improper assembly or installation 3) parts subjected to use not consistent with the use originally intended for the product.